Jewellery Hallmarks Explained | How to Read Vintage & Antique Marks (UK Guide)

At Antiqua Jewellery, we believe that understanding hallmarks is one of the most empowering parts of buying pre-loved, vintage, and antique jewellery. These tiny marks are not just stamps — they are stories of craftsmanship, origin, and history.

This guide will help you decode what you see on your jewellery, so every piece you wear feels even more meaningful.

What are jewellery hallmarks?

A hallmark is an official mark applied by an independent assay office to certify precious metal content. In countries like the UK, hallmarking has been legally regulated for centuries.

A stamp is a broader term that can include:

• purity marks (like 375, 750, 925)

• maker’s marks

• brand marks

• plating marks (GP, GF, EPNS)

• workshop or import marks

In simple terms:

All hallmarks are stamps — but not all stamps are hallmarks.

Where to find hallmarks on vintage jewellery

Look closely in these common places:

• Rings: inside the band

• Bracelets: near the clasp or hinge

• Necklaces: on the clasp or end tag

• Earrings: on posts, backs, or inner edges

• Brooches: along the pin stem or back edge

Tip: Use your phone’s macro camera in bright daylight — you’ll often see far more in a photo than with the naked eye.

How UK hallmarks work

A traditional UK hallmark usually tells you four things:

1. Maker’s mark – who submitted the piece

2. Fineness number – what metal it is

3. Assay office symbol – where it was tested

4. Date letter (optional) – when it was hallmarked

UK Assay Office symbols (where it was tested)

You’ll commonly see:

• London — Leopard’s head

• Birmingham — Anchor

• Sheffield — Rose

• Edinburgh — Castle

These symbols are often tiny and can look worn on older pieces, but their basic shape is usually still visible.

Common fineness numbers (what the metal is)

Gold

• 375 = 9ct gold (37.5% gold)

• 585 = 14ct gold (58.5% gold)

• 750 = 18ct gold (75.0% gold)

• 916 = 22ct gold (91.6% gold)

• 999 = fine gold (99.9% gold)

Silver

• 925 = Sterling silver

• 958 = Britannia silver

Platinum & Palladium

• 950 = Platinum (most common)

• 500 / 950 = Palladium (depending on context)

Jewellery Hallmark Cheat Sheet (Quick Reference)

Plated vs solid jewellery — marks that matter

Not everything that looks gold is solid gold. Common plating marks include:

• GP – gold plated

• GF – gold filled

• RGP – rolled gold plate

• EPNS – electroplated nickel silver

If you see these, the piece is not solid precious metal — but it can still be beautiful vintage jewellery.

International hallmarks you may see

At Antiqua Jewellery, we often encounter pieces from across Europe:

• France: tiny animal or head marks (e.g., eagle head for 18K gold)

• Germany: crescent moon + crown on silver

• Netherlands: lion or Minerva head on silver

• Switzerland: often seen on vintage watch cases

Each system reflects its country’s history and craftsmanship.

Red flags to watch for

Be cautious if:

• a piece claims to be gold but has no marks at all,

• marks look brand new on a heavily worn ring,

• you see conflicting marks (e.g., 925 + GP together),

• or “CHINA” appears on something described as antique.

This doesn’t always mean a piece is fake — but it does mean you should ask questions.

How Antiqua Jewellery authenticates vintage pieces

We don’t rely on hallmarks alone. We also examine:

• setting style,

• craftsmanship,

• age-appropriate wear,

• construction techniques,

• and overall authenticity.

Hallmarks help confirm what expert visual inspection already suggests.